Slow fashion - How to get started (pt1)
By Cathi Rae
Photograph: Cathi Rae
We all know a t-shirt that costs £2.00, will not be paying a liveable wage. It won’t be made well and when it costs less than our take-away coffee, well, it’s hard to value it, so we don’t.
In the UK, the average fast fashion item is worn less than 7 times before it ends up in landfill. Each of us disposes approximately 70kg worth of fabric every year. Co-incidentally 70kg is also the average weight of a woman in the UK – that is a LOT of clothes thrown away! Wasted clothing is a waste of natural resources, money, time and energy and a wasted opportunity to buy the clothes that really bring us joy.
I am going to be talking about how YOU can take small, simple and effective steps to heal the planet, help your finances, your mental health and to walk away from the “Want/Click/Get/Repeat” model of shopping.
The very first change we can make is both the simplest and the most challenging – it is: shopping your wardrobe – simply put, it means wearing what you already have and committing to not buying anything new for a specific amount of time. There are a few things you need to do for this to work:
Know your wardrobe. We’ve all had the secret shame of buying something new and then discovering we already own something almost identical.
Photograph: Becca McHaffie
So, sorting out your wardrobe is the starting point and ironically, given that you are committing to not buying clothes for a while, this may mean getting rid of some of the things you already own.
Make three piles (Keep/Donate/Get Rid). If you haven’t worn it for two years or it is two sizes too small or too big or it was an impulse buy - you know what to do...
Organise your wardrobe. We often wear the same dozen items because they are the easiest to get to. My wardrobe (and yes, I have a lot of clothes) is sorted by the type of clothing and I separate out winter and summer clothing to make items easier to find.
Play around. Once you know what you own, it is much easier to style up outfits, try new combinations and make what you own work for you.
Be accountable. Partner up with a friend, colleague or family member and commit to not buying anything for 30 days. Support each other when that online basket feels so tempting…
Reward yourself. Use the money you have saved and treat yourself to fresh flowers, tasty food or a good book. This experience is NOT a punishment.
There will be times when you need or want something to wear and now that you know what you own, you will also know the real gaps in your wardrobe. Also, by breaking the want/click/get cycle, your shopping will be more mindful and considered.
Photograph: Cathi Rae
One of the easiest and cheapest ways to revamp your clothes is via a clothes swap (and yes, we will have to wait for Leicester to finally come out of lockdown for this). This could be an organised event or just something informal with friends and colleagues – the usual rule is that for every item you bring, you get to take something home. Clothes destined for landfill or languishing at the back of the wardrobe get a new life and everyone gets to go home with something new.
And once you have dipped your toes into the world of pre-loved clothing, you are ready for the next step - you’re ready to hit the charity shops!
Charity shops have upped their game in the last few years. Clothes are well organised, the shops look more attractive and many of the big charities have even embraced online shopping. Browsing in charity shops has become very cool, but it is not the same experience as a visit to Zara. So, bear this in mind.
Charity shopping takes time, there may be days when you come home empty handed. It’s not a quick fix solution, but part of the joy is the anticipation of that unexpected find.
You need to be open minded to the unexpected. I once came home with a pair of beautifully embroidered genuine lederhosen. I didn’t go out looking for them, but I’m very pleased I found them.
The days of finding amazing items for a few pence are probably over. The staff in most charity shops now know a lot about their stock and it’s completely possible to find high end clothing at a fraction of what it would cost brand new.
You need to try things on. Sizing, especially for vintage stuff, is not the same as current sizing and don’t forget to check seams, zips and fastenings (most charity shops don’t allow you to return stuff).
Visit your favourite shops regularly, build a relationship with the staff and remember that many charity shops add new stock every day.
If bricks and mortar charity shopping isn't for you, don’t forget eBay, Vinted and DePop, all friendly ways of getting almost any item of clothing. Yes, you may pay a little more, but these sites are a fantastic way of finding specific labels or sizes.
In the next article, I will be exploring styling your preloved finds, buying vintage, slow fashion and how to find truly sustainable brands.
About Author: Cathi Rae is a campaigner challenging ageism within the fashion industry. She is currently working on a PhD in creative writing at the University of Leicester, looking at poetry and marginalised lives. Her instagram focuses on positive representation of older bodies and she is a champion for slow fashion, wearing preloved clothes and sustainable shopping choices. She offers curated and guided personal shopping and styling services with a focus on preloved and vintage shopping. You can find her on Instagram or on YouTube @cathirae.
